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The Wall That Dreams Are Made Of

Further down the mountain, about 100 yard, below the God Crag area, is The Wall that Dreams are Made Of. The approach is long and painful in any season other than winter, but it is worth it just for Bushwhack Crack. There are other nice climbs on the wall as well, including the steep finger crack of The The, perhaps the first 5.13 redpoint in Virginia.

74)****Bushwhack Crack 5.10c. Climb obvious fist/hand crack leaning to the left. Leads up through roof about 12 feet above the ground (spot may be advisable until gear is placed above the roof, as turning the roof is the technical crux), followed by continuous perfect hand jamming up perfect vertical granite. Fortunately, it soaks up plenty of gear, upon which resting is popular. The crack narrows to thin hands and off-fingers at the top. About 80’, overhanging a little the whole way. One of the best climbs in Virginia, or anywhere else, for that matter.

75)***The The 5.13a/b. About 20 feet to the right of Bushwhack Crack there is a finger crack. Mere mortals can get some distance off the ground. Then it gets hard. Follow prominent finger crack up through concave wall to 2’ overhang. Continue up vertical face. All gear route.

76)**Good Friday 5.11a. A hand to fist crack/left-facing dihedral 6’ far to the right of The The, which can be jammed, laybacked or stemmed, though a combination of techniques might be best. The offset of the corner is about 2’.

77)* Unknown face/arête 5.11d. Four feet to the right of Good Friday is a corner. Start 2 feet around the corner. Follow 4 bolts up, staying close to the arête.

78)** Beam Me Up Scotty 5.10d. A narrowing crack starting as an easy offwidth and finishing as a difficult hand jam; begins on the next level down to the right. 75 feet.

About 40 yards below The Wall That Dream Are Made Of is another small crag with some interesting problems.

79) Unknown dome crack 5.10a. Follow stiff vertical off-finger finger crack past ledge for about 25 feet until angle eases and the crack ends. Traverse right to arête, and ascend back side of rock via crack and face climbing. Come back on to the arête just as the crack becomes a seam, to a surprise bolt. Easy climbing to top, walk off gully to right. Plenty of gear, off-fingers and smaller, 130 feet.

There are additional crags and spires further down the Gully, many of which are awaiting accents.

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