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The Projects and the Suburbs

The Projects (aka Sunset)

The Projects are one of the more complex areas on the mountain to reach. There is no well-established trail, and the landmarks are rocks and patterns of trees that can be difficult to follow. The area is between 2600’ and 2700’ at 78.19’5”W and 38.34.6”N (Right Side Wall) and is only moderately horribly difficult to find in summer. The climbs are 30’ to 70’ in height, many are bolted, and some very nice climbs can be found. However, since the approach is better in cool weather and the area is cold in the winter, choose a perfect fall or spring day for the voyage. Climbs are described from right to left as the climber faces up the mountain.

From the Saddle Trail, ascend until the first extensive set of stone stairs is reached, leading up and right. Leave the trail about 40 feet lower than this turn and bushwhack about 300 yards to the left, staying at roughly a constant elevation. Then angle up and left for several hundred yards further, climbing on open slabs if possible to avoid being eaten by the dense laurel. You should be able to see the cliffs through the trees.

A shorter but more difficult to follow approach is possible further up the Saddle Trail. About 250 yards before the summit locate a small trail leading down a gully on the left. You will pass below a friction slab with a low wall on its lower edge (Lower Summit Slab). Follow this down the gully until it is possible to descend more directly. There will appear a large 300-yard square low angle slab with a 20’ wall facing the gully to your right. The Projects will be visible, a couple of hundred yards down and to the left. There are some low angle slabs on the right side of the gully that help avoid the brush, but be cautious descending them. They can be a bit dirty.

Right Side Wall

4)**Unknown 5.8. Traverse left, then follow line of 4 bolts to double ring belay. Hidden holds here and there make it very reasonable. 35’, all bolts.

5)***Unknown 5.11b/c. Twisty mantles and laybacks lead past 2 bolts to layback edge. Thin face climbing leads past 2 more bolts to top. 40’, shuts.

[add unknown 5.10b crack with one bolt near the top?]

6)**TR Finger Crack 5.12b. Follow steep left leaning finger crack past 1 fixed pin and 3 small fixed stoppers, at last count.

7)**Easy Project 5.5. Right facing inside corner with hand/fist crack. Trad, 30’.

Breasts of Sheba (78.19’5”W, 38.34’6”N)
These climbs are located about 75 yards to the east of the right side wall and face north. The base of the climbs is on a balcony well up from the ground and is best located by traversing over from the uphill (right) side of the right side wall.

8)****Dark Side of the Moon 5.10d. Follow 6 bolts up the right breast, starting at the left side and working right. Some friction, some lay backing, some mantling, and some weird stuff. A very nice slab. 60’, shuts.

9)**Unknown 5.6 PG. Climb right facing inside corner with off-width crack. Takes modest size gear if you reach deep inside. 45’, trad.

10)**Unknown 5.11. On left breast, follow line of bolts up and left under overhang. Traverse left to anchor. 80’.

11) **Unknown 5.8 On left side of left breast friction up a gentle slope out toward the ‘nipple’ region, then turn and follow the bolts up the arĂȘte; nicely exposed. Cold shuts at top also serve for the next climb:

12) *Stretch Mark 5.10a Climb the steeper flank to the only short crack; place some good gear in spots you don’t need for finger-jams, and crank.

The Suburbs
Several small crags are located to the right of the projects and slightly lower on the mountain. These can be approached as for the projects, or better, from above via the Saddle trail. Go further up the Saddle Trail, past the stone steps. When you cross the edge of a 30- by 40-foot level slab, go back down and take a side trail leaving just at the uphill side of an 8 foot boulder. Follow this trail down a set of slabs, staying to your right as you face down hill. When the slabs end, continue down hill into a narrow gully until a series of crags appear on your right. Continue straight down the gully, passing on your right first “Oh My Gosh Corner” and then “Winding Road”. By veering to the right at the bottom of the slabs it is possible to reach the Projects with some difficulty. Climbs are listed in the order you will reach them, from right to left.

13)** Oh My Gosh Corner 5.9-) Left facing corner with crack that starts as a low angle seam and gradually becomes an overhanging hand crack. Stemming, lay backing, jamming. A few wraps of tape on the right hand will allow you to enjoy the exit jams. Protects well with stoppers alone, but cams may help. 35’. Identifiable by shallow cave to the right of the base.

14)** Winding Road 5.10aPG) Wander up face to left of short crag. This line begins near the lower left edge behind a large fallen log, moves right and then up past a small right facing ramp and undercling, and then left to a body size horizontal crack. Traverse awkwardly far to the left until it is possible to step up and finish. Run out to first placement in horizontal crack. Watch out for rope drag as the end is nice and delicate. 60’ of climbing to gain 40’in altitude. About 40 yards down hill from Oh My Gosh.

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