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The Byrds Nest Crag

The Byrds Nest Crag
Behind Byrds Nest #1 is a 100 foot long by 20 foot high top-rope crag with some excellent hard problems on finer grained rock. Unlike the rest of the climbing on Old Rag, these routes offer hard slightly overhanging climbing on solid incuts, somewhat like Great Falls Virginia. Though Old Rag shines most brightly for its lead climbing areas, this is a good crag for young climbers with strong fingers. I’m always too tired from leading to have given this nice little crag the attention it deserves. Some nice bouldering.

From the trail, walk past the front of the Byrds Nest following an obvious trail through several clearings. When the trail becomes vague in a hundred yards, trend to the right and follow the base of a north west facing cliff band on reaching a small clearing at the base of the crag. Routes are listed from left to right.

1)* Unknown 5.9. Climb face and then finish on finger crack. Often damp.

2)* Unknown 5.10d. Climb face 20 feet left of finger crack. Zig zag up face using horizontals, side-clings, and creative reach.

3) Unknown 5.11. Climb the face 50 feet to the right of the finger crack. Some rotten rock.

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