God Crag, Bushwack Trail Area

Same approach as Reflector Oven, but take the left fork. Again, watch the trail closely. This area can also be approached from above by taking a trail a bit further north on the ridge trail. Follow indistinct trails down the spine, looking for some dwarfed pine trees that belong in a Japanese painting. At that point either figure out a rap, (there is a single bolt on the slope above Jabba the Hut, to help get you to the small pines at the top of the cliff) or down climb a steep and challenging 3rd class gully to your right as you face down hill.  As in many other spots on Old Rag, description of the approach is virtually useless; however, distances are short, so be patient and persistent and eventually you'll find something.  Even a blind squirrel, etc.



55)**Jabba the Hut Hard 5.9+PG. Follow 3 bolts up the right side of the slab. Some nice traversing moves toward the top. A slight run out at the top and bottom, but not scary. The bottom runout can be avoided by slinging a tree.

56)*Jabba the Hut Easy 5.8PG. Follow right leaning trad crack 20 feet left of Jabba the Hut Hard to the same belay. Run out at the top, but easing angle.

Jabba also has harder leads; one of them starts at the point of the base left of the crack start of Jabba Easy where the brush ends, and you are standing on clean but steep rock.  There is a belay station and a stiff overhang start, probably .10d or harder (couldn't quite pull it); it then crosses Jabba Easy, going straight up, and has a rather thin crux near the top in the easy 5.10 range. Adequate bolts, but bring a few nuts and some guns.

57)****”Oh My God” Dihedral 5.10cPG. Classic overhanging lay back/off width crack. With modern large crack cams it is merely exhausting and intimidating. With only Hexentrics in the good old days, it was terrifying, as the crack keeps getting bigger, steeper, and smoother. Practice energy conservation, and keep it moving. 55 feet, gear route. (Yes, the cover shot is flipped because I liked it better that way - this is the correct image)

Around the corner, below “Oh My God” and to the north, are a series of bolted slab routes ranging in difficulty from 5.8 to 5.11d. Most are bolted and easy to find. Included are God Knows 5.11a (just around the corner, 6 bolts) and Alpenglow 5.11a (classic, 5 bolts). The easiest approach is to go back up hill a bit and follow the trail in front of the foreground cliff. Many begin from patios that have serious 3rd class approaches, particularly with a full pack.

58)**God Knows 5.11a. Climb left edge of face just around to the right from “Oh My God” on the same hunk of rock. Pass 6 blots to shuts.

59)**The Untamed 5.10d. Climb center of face past 3 bolts to shuts. Light rack.

60)**The Unchained 5.11 b/cPG. Climb the right edge of the face past 3 bolts to shuts. Light rack.

61)**House Broken 5.8. A reasonable start to The Unchained. Follow edge just to the right until the routes join. The crux is a friction problem low on the route, followed by some lay backing, face climbing, and a reach to the ledge. Shuts, from which the Untamed and Unchained can be top roped.


Just down hill from Oh My God Corner is a patio reached by climbing a 6 foot head wall with a crack in it, just to the left of the path. Notice the God Corner in the upper right hand corner. You are above the left wall of the Bushwhack Corridor.

62)**Climbers in Torpor, right side, 5.10a. Climb up and right past 4 bolts. Steeper than it looks, with interesting pockets. 60 feet. Rappel carefully from a bush-like tree.

63)**The Ragged Edge #2, 5.9+ to 10c?) Climb past bolts up left side. 70 feet.