To reach this area scrambles left along the base of the Lower Ridge Gully Slab for about 150 feet, through a saddle, until it crosses a 25’ low angle friction slab. Descend the center of the slab with great caution, then follow the large boulder on your left around to its base. Continue down hill 200’ until you are below a gently overhanging 70 foot wall split by large hand and off-width cracks, reminiscent of Vedawoow. Other climbs are possible. Many look unpleasant, but not all. Perhaps some first assents are needed? There are additional climbs further down at the base of this massif, and other small crags further down the mountain in this gully.
OR8, 13, area photo for topo, Barbarian Crag
103)** It’s All Over But the Screaming 5.10a. Climb the left leaning hand crack. Scramble up a few moves until a very rough but parallel left leaning hand crack is reached. Jam up about 35 feet through some wider sections until a stance is reached at a Y in the crack. Follow the right hand crack, still leaning a little to the left, up through a small overhang (crux) to another stance. Jam up the simple but physical off-width/chimney with a bush in it to the top. Gear anchor. Trad route, 75’. Lots of tape is recommended. This is a pleasant climb with great pro, good positions, and nice jams….if your armor is thick enough to prevent the crystals from crushing your hands. Another finish is possible from the stance below the overhang. Traverse right 8 feet to another crack and climb that at moderate 5.10. Watch your rope drag around the corner.
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